Fashion Inspiration - Maria Soromenho

LOOKBOOK_Page_01

The world of fashion is, arguably, dominated by the giant heavy weights, the icons. Chanel. Victoria Beckham. Oscar de la Renta. Erdem. To name but a few. The upper echelon of the fash-pack command the advertising pages of the glossy magazines (that I adore) and dominate the catwalk. They are the names to know, the collections to study, the looks to emulate and translate into your day-to-day wear.

But inspiration can be found in many places, and sometimes it's the emerging newbies, the just starting-outs, the underground movers and shakers that can influence and catch your eye.

May I introduce you to Maria Soromenho.

COLLECTION_Page_01

LOOKBOOK_Page_10 LOOKBOOK_Page_09 LOOKBOOK_Page_08 LOOKBOOK_Page_07 LOOKBOOK_Page_06 LOOKBOOK_Page_05 LOOKBOOK_Page_04 LOOKBOOK_Page_03 LOOKBOOK_Page_02

Maria contacted me recently about her first capsule collection, launched in August 2013, and I was intrigued by its unconventionality and taken in by the distinctive textures, the detail and striking colours of her work. Handcrafted sequins, beading and studs cleverly juxtapose leather and leopard skin and create a unique and fresh look. Her work is extremely influenced by music and art, and as a lover of both and of all things fashion related, I am particularly excited to showcase Maria's work on Material Whirl.

A clothing brand that is music / art conscious. Has the aim to collaborate with artists specially musicians. Each piece is different and unique. An experiment of materials and different textures. Experimental yet wearable. Each piece has a story, a song and a name. Fashion to communicate, give identity and to turn a lifestyle into a look that can be translated in clothes. An aim to shape a generation anddress the agitators. Not just about the clothes alone but how people dress them.

Born in Setubal, Portugal, Maria lived in Lisbon and Paris where she studied Stage Design and interned at the museum Les Arts Decoratifs being part of the organisation of the exhibition "Hussein Chalayan: recits de mode".  Having briefly studied Womenswear at the London College of Fashion she also managed to get an impressive collection of internships under her (very stylish) belt including the prestigious Peter Pilotto and Richard Nicoll in London, and with the very influential Wonderland Magazine. She is currently Studio / General Manager and in-house PR at Fannie Schiavoni.

COLLECTION_Page_10 COLLECTION_Page_09 COLLECTION_Page_08 COLLECTION_Page_07 COLLECTION_Page_06 COLLECTION_Page_05 COLLECTION_Page_04 COLLECTION_Page_03 COLLECTION_Page_02 LOOKBOOK_Page_01 LOOKBOOK_Page_11

Talented and one to watch. Maria, I wish you all the best and hope to add something from your collection to my wardrobe soon.

Pieces from Maria's collection can be purchased from Kuji Shop
facebook.com/mariaasoromenho mariasoromenho.tumblr.com
cigaretteinmybed.tumblr.com

http://cargocollective.com/mariasoromenho/The-Holy-Velvet-at-Heart

 

ISABEL MARANT POUR H&M

Isabel-Marant-Pour-HM-Lookbook-51-700x933

I am plagued with anxiety this week about a looming deadline. THURSDAY 14 NOVEMBER. It has been sitting, waiting patiently for a while now in my diary. Written in huge scrawling letters, in blue pen no less - not pencil, as indicates its significance. It is even double underlined.

It keeps me awake at night, images fluttering around my head and unnerving thoughts of how I can make it possible, how I can achieve this seemingly impossible feat. It is not directly associated with my day job, which itself is jammed full of deadlines and dates and the like, nor thankfully does it have a direct impact on my health or relationship with my husband, family or friends. Debatably.

Yet, it is nearly here and I am nervously perspiring a little more each day as it looms and will finally reach its climactic end.

Isabel Marant's much awaited collaboration with H&M finally hits stores and online this Thursday.

Isabel-Marant-H_M

What? Me? Dramatic you say? Your heart was racing for nothing? Pah! You may consider me theatrical, perhaps roll your eyes upwards to heaven, but believe me when I say this is a huge, huge deal. Gargantuan. It has been firmly in my diary since the news first broke back in June and in my eyes all November days lead to Marant.

Isabel Marant is arguably the most influential womenswear designer of our time. She has singlehandedly changed the way we dress. As the fabulous Mimi Spencer recently said, No one has done more to author the look of the decade than Marant. I would bet my entire collection of Vogue that you wear at least one of the following items: Printed trousers, ankle boots, a studded something. Bashed-about leather. Skinny jeans with an ankle-grazing cut. A beautiful embroidered jacket, a grey marl T-shirt and of course the ubiquitous wedge-heeled trainers that have been imitated so widely but never beaten. Yes? Well, you have already been touched by the power of Marant, and its rock n’ roll bohemian edge has snared you in its fabulous trap.

kate_moss mossad

Marant, born and raised in Paris, started her eponymous label in 1994 after graduating from the acclaimed Studio Bercot and working her way up through the fashion line. The A/W 2010 collection saw the hit python print pattern while S/S and A/W of 2010 brought us leather motocross trousers and fringed cowboy boots. The collection for H&M edit of the key pieces taken from her archive. So in effect you can get your hands on a reinterpreted piece of fashion history.

35

isabel-marant-details-spring-fashion-2010-009_runway

 

Now-Isabel-Marant-Reveals-H_M_s-Menswear-Collection_-Here_s-The-First-Look

That effortless, casual insouciance and very Parisian way of dressing has always remained firmly in my head / look book / magazines but devastatingly never ever in my wardrobe due to its significant price tag, despite the diffusion line Etoile being a slightly more affordable option (if I forewent food).

However, an affordable way to channel Marant / Carine Roitfeld / Lou Doillon and those other French hotties is now all but a finger’s grasp/click away. Plus there is a menswear debut for the Parisian brand, which is exciting in itself, and a campaign that features Milla Jovovich, Doillon, Daria Werbowy and Saskia de Brauw, as well as male models Guillaume Macé, Clément Chabernaud, and Niels Schneider. Zut alors!

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ci7JMO-YrI&w=420&h=315]

Yet, is it a case of so near yet so far as I fear? To purchase a piece of Marant presents the following dilemmas:

  1. Going to my nearest participating H&M store. Gulp. Queuing at dawn, or perhaps camping out and sleeping in a sodden tent, sharpening my elbows, pushing other hungry fashionistas keen for a piece of the Marant magnificence, tussling over a printed sweatshirt or chainmail cuff. Plus, the last time I visited the flagship Oxford Street store to buy something from the Paris Fashion Week Collection, they had an in-store DJ. She was dancing. It was 2.15 pm in the afternoon. Time, energy and age are not on my side - I know only too well what determined twenty-somethings can be like, I used to be one. In addition, I have a very busy day job and thus kicking myself for not booking the day off in advance. There is also The Queuing System in place specifically for the ladieswear collection, which sounds terrifying. There are coloured bracelets, allocated to groups of twenty customers, and the colour determines when it is your time to shop/fight. So I am hoping positively there will be something left post-5pm as opposed to a solitary jacket in a not-my-size size.
  2. Being alert and ready online at 09:00 on the dot, and super sharp with my clicking to purchase via the website. After all, I have done my research, I have planned and plotted and prepared for this deadline. I have studied every single one of the fifty-two iconic pieces, deliberated and subsequently selected what I want, saving ferociously. When it comes to fashion I am a certified Grade-A geek and I hope my hard work will reap the rewards. Should be easy, right? No website crashes, no other clever clogs with the same idea? Reasonably (tut) purchases are limited to a maximum of one item per person ‘so that everyone can buy something from Isabel Marant pour H&M' so this makes my head kind of spin. I also have an afore-mentioned day job that I love and do not think shouting PLEASE WAIT I AM BUYING ISABEL MARANT POUR H&M will cut it.
  3. Purchasing on eBay, although there is talk that the collection has already found its way on to the online auctioning website thanks to some people buying pieces at a preview sale and sneakily putting them online at hugely exaggerated (example). How business savvy. How impertinent.

So it looks like I am going to have to work hard for my fringing and my tribal prints. I am having dreams (nightmares) about the trophy jacket with beaded embroidery (£199) selling out - but I am going to try my damnedest to get it even if I cause myself an injury, a Marant malaise if you will.

I am not sure my nerves are quite up to this but I'll keep you posted. It will be brutal.

Good luck out there…

Isabel-Marant-HM-01

Isabel Marant for H&M launches in-store and online from November 14.

http://www.hm.com/gb/isabel-marant#see_all
http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/news/isabel-marant-h-m
http://www.isabelmarant.com/en/
I consider this collection a gift to my lovers...

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmzRLasJpp0&w=420&h=315]

 

 

I Only Want You to Love Me

IMG_4608

This afternoon, on a crisp Autumn day in London Town, I paid a visit to the Miles Aldridge photographic exhibition, I Only Want You to Love Me, at the beautiful Somerset House.

This stylish and thought-provoking exhibition provides a retrospective of Aldridge's work and coincides with the publication of his glossy book of the same name published by Rizzoli. Aldridge was born in North London and his father is the graphic designer Alan Aldridge. He studied illustration at Central St Martin's and after a brief stint directing pop videos, he fell into fashion after sending some of the photos of a model girlfriend to British Vogue and they contacted him (as well as her). He started working almost immediately and has shooted for noted fashion designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent and Paul Smith.

Women and colour are Aldridge's main obsessions and this is arrestingly clear in his work. The photographs are visually beautiful, highly stylised and feature women posed in what on the surface appear to be traditional roles (secretary, housewife etc) but when you look deeper under the surface there is a sense of disturbance. The colours are deeply saturated from sugary candy pinks and beige to shocking magenta and verdant green and the composition is incredible.

All images shown in the exhibition are featured in magazines, the majority in Vogue Italia, and Aldridge's longest and most creative collaboration is with Editor-In-Chief Franco Sozzani who featured his work in a piece named Home Chic for Vogue Italia in October 2011 and Home Works in March 2008. In addition to the beautiful large-scale photographic prints produced throughout his career, visitors can see hand-drawn storyboards, drawings and polaroids that offer an intriguing and intimate insight into Aldridge's creative process.

The exhibition challenges the mind and polarises opinion. On the surface the technicolour images appear rather artificial, and the cinematic influences of David Lynch, Douglas Sirk and Alfred Hitchcock are apparent throughout. The photographs, however, are controversial - in my personal opinion, some of the shots seem to empathise with the models and others objectify and degrade them, leaving you wondering whether Aldridge actually likes women at all. The accompanying narrative to the exhibition suggests some of the models may seem indifferent and show emotional ambivalence, but in fact Aldridge wanted to present them in a state of contemplation and with a sense of hopelessness. Undeniably, some of the exaggerated prints are exploitative - a head pushed down on a bed, unnecessary exposure of the models bodies and them posed surrounded by broken bottles and plates in a suggestively violent scene.

216625_s60_f6

Yet, whatever your opinion there is no mistaking that the prints provide striking, highly stylised fashion images with a powerful impact. Not to be missed.

To me, the great moments in Hollywood are close-ups of a woman's face, thinking, and she's just realised that her whole world is wrong.

Until Sunday, 29 September
Embankment Galleries East, South Wing, Somerset House, Strand, London, WC2R 1LA
http://www.somersethouse.org.uk 
Tickets: http://www.somersethouse.org.uk/book-tickets/8d7b98b9-1438-4cec-9904-65d3dad2246b
 
IMG_4595
 
 

I wish, I wish, I wish

'Fashion is part of the daily air and it changes all the time, with all the events. You can even see the approaching of a revolution in clothes. You can see and feel everything in clothes'. 

Diana Vreeland

Antonio Berardi

Here is my fashion wish list for this week. A panoply of delectable pieces that I wish were mine.  Pink to make the fash-pack nod admirably.

HIGH STREET
DESIGNER
INSPIRATION