VB takes me back to 1997

When Victoria Beckham was pictured leaving a hotel in NYC a few months back* in bold summer brights, two words immediately sprung to mind.

(*Apologies, being a Mum-that-blogs means I operate on a time delay. I’m either way ahead of the game after a night-feed Twitter sesh or miles behind).

Those two words were Electric Angels.

Electric Angels was the acclaimed debut collection by designer Matthew Williamson who had graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins college in 1994 after studying a BA in Fashion Design and Printed Textiles. Williamson had launched his own fashion label, Matthew Williamson Ltd, with his business partner Joseph Velosa.

In 1997 a cold call was made to Plum Sykes, who at the time was the Fashion Assistant at British Vogue. This led to a meeting with Sykes where she placed an order with Williamson for some of his self-designed silk scarves. Encouraged by this reaction, Williamson focused on creating his first ever womenswear collection for SS98, which was to be shown at London Fashion Week. The rest, as they say, is history.

Picture the scene. It’s September 1997, LFW is in full flow and Electric Angels is illuminating the catwalk. The show featured only fourteen looks, but they were hugely impactful pieces, including bias cut dresses in a zingy palette of colours such as tangerine, fuchsia, magenta and aqua. The collection was an ode to the dragonfly, with hand-embroidered organza dragonfly wings swooping across shift dresses and sitting on the shoulder of cardigans.

Perhaps most memorably, the models included Kate Moss, Helena Christensen and Jade Jagger. Williamson’s catwalk debut received widespread acclaim and deservedly made him a luminary of the British fashion scene. The early '90s had seen the introduction of grunge and minimalism thanks to Marc Jacobs’ historic and very cool (but at the time criticised) grunge collection show for Perry Ellis in 1992. In stark contrast, Williamson’s show was an outburst of spirited brights, sensual exoticism and intricate details which caught everyone’s attention and would define his signature style.

So, back to Victoria Beckham and the reason I’m writing this. It was VB’s bright aqua trousers and fitted red sweater that reminded me of the bias cut dress that Kate Moss wore. Trust VB to reference one of the most important moments in fashion history, a show that made a huge impact on the style world and paved the way for an illustrious career that continues to stand the test of time. Williamson’s signature aesthetic remains vibrant with patterns, textures and kaleidoscopic colour.

Electric Angels lasted just seven minutes but was the starting point for the label, which under Williamson and his business partner Velosa, has continued to grow.

The show without question remains one of my all-time favourite fashion moments so far and the beautiful models and exotic pieces had an enormous impact on me. It was magnetic.

Absolutely Fashion: Inside British Vogue

It took 100 years to open their doors, but would the fashion bible ever share its secrets?

It’s safe to say there's not a lot of glamour in my life at the moment. Style is scant, elegance is exiguous. September Vogue has been woefully neglected along with its mates August, July and June Issues and summer trends, although eagerly observed, blew right past me.

As I write this I’m lunching, keeping one eye on baby Evan via the Baby Monitor App and gulping down my one-mug-of-caffeine-tea-as-per-NHS-guidelines as if someone’s going to take it away from me. There’s a dollop of peanut butter on my just-washed jeans and let’s not mention my crazy hair.

So the news that a BBC Two documentary series is about to air portraying life at British Vogue as it celebrates its centenary year is music to my ears. (The only music in fact, I’m eating in total silence apart from the occasional clattering of fork on plate in case the radio wakes the baby). I literally sat up for the first time in ages and felt enthused about watching something I have a bona fide interest in.

The first episode of the two-part documentary Absolutely Fashion: Inside British Vogue, will broadcast on Thursday 8 September at 9.00 pm and promises to show what Vogue wears and what Vogue eats (can you even imagine?! I can’t, but would bet my Marc Jacobs bag it’s not peanut butter on toast).

It was shot by award-winning filmmaker Richard Macer (in association with his company Platform Productions) who, for the first time in British Vogue’s 100 year history, was granted unprecedented access to the magazine’s daily life over a nine month period. Macer’s footage includes one-on-one interviews with editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman and her power team of editors and key contributors, major fashion photoshoots and international shows. He also captured the every day running of the office as they prepared for and started to commemorate 100 years of the world’s most influential and celebrated fashion publication.

The documentary series promises to go behind the scenes and “uncover the world of high fashion like never before” and provide viewers with a candid and fascinating insight into an ever-changing industry. Episode one takes us to the end of the Spring/Summer 2017 fashion shows in September 2015. We get to follow Shulman and her creative heads - including Fashion Director Lucinda Chambers (who I imagine takes on the role of the magnetic Grace Coddington), Creative Director Jaime Perlman, Fashion Features Director Sarah Harris, Editor-at-Large Fiona Golfar, and the wider Vogue team. Later on in the series, Macer's camera observes some of the fashion world’s most popular characters on set, including Edie Campbell, Mario Testino and of course Kate Moss who has appeared on more British Vogue covers than anyone else. What would a fashion documentary be without Moss?

I cannot wait to watch it. I imagine Absolutely Fashion: Inside British Vogue to be like The September Issue with a huge dose of British eccentricity and dazzle. I’m expecting huge characters, unfettered style and plenty of fabulous melodrama. For years I’ve wandered through London’s Hanover Square and seen Vogue House looming in all its palatial glory, contemplating what it’s actually like to run the UK’s style bible; how big decisions are made, exactly where inspirational shoots are prepped and great features are concocted and tried to get a peek through the doors in vain, so I'll be glad for the virtual tour.

You can watch the trailer below (did anyone else feel a bit nervous when the great Alexandra Shulman said "have you got a pass?"), although it provides only a tantalising excerpt, and The Guardian’s Morwenna Ferrier was lucky enough to get a sneak preview which you can read about here.

The preface on the BBC Two website explains “the films observe a world not just intent of celebrating the glories of the past, but also facing up to the challenges of an uncertain future”. It asks “With Instagram and other social media starting to challenge the magazine’s exalted position, can Shulman keep it on top?”.

I have no doubt. The magazine in my opinion remains as powerful and exciting as it has ever been. It influences and inspires, it provides a heady escape from the norm and an endorsement from Vogue magazine guarantees continuing success for labels, models and brands. I continue to buy and collect the print version on a monthly basis as well as devour the digital content.I’ll happily be at one of my closest friends’ wedding celebrations when the documentary airs on Thursday (surrounded by glitzy ladies with a little Evan attached to me and timing my quaffing of champers around feeding) but will catch on iPlayer as soon as I can.

In the meantime, I’ll be watching half hour snippets of The September Issue in preparation (whilst doing some ironing. Oh the glamour).

Absolutely Fashion: Inside British Vogue on BBC Two starts on Thursday, 8th September at 9pm.

Kate Moss x Topshop - A Mossoholic's point of view

"The British high street has always been one of the strongest in the world, and I love that the Brits are not scared to experiment". 

Kate Moss, Company Magazine, May 2014

Brace yourselves fashion fans (and any unwitting pedestrians in the Oxford Circus area). The fifteenth collection of Kate Moss x Topshop will soon be upon us. *squeal!

London's Evening Standard tonight reports of 'The great Kateover'. Magazines have been giving us a nudge for weeks and Topshop's social media campaign has quite rightly gone into overdrive, building Moss Mania to a thundering crescendo causing Hysteria! and Panic!...Kate's back!

I absolutely, 100% have been swept up in the frenzy. Every time a mention or a peek of the collection appears in a magazine or pops up in my Twitter feed, I get a bit panicky, my stomach lurches noticeably. I am gloomy already at the thought of missing the chance to secure a Kate-style frock, a star-sequined cami or THAT fringed leather jacket, or anything for that matter from the new drop inspired by her favourite pieces in her own wardrobe. (Sometimes at night I am kept awake with thoughts of that wardrobe. How big is it? Is it organised by colour? By defining era? Do things get lost?)

The most coveted items are expected to sell out in hours and so I am not hopeful of adding a piece to my existing collection - a black vest and delicate sequined dress from the inaugural 2007 collection.  Regular Material Whirl readers will know I Look to Kate and that my success in securing designer/high street collabs has met with mixed success. Versace for H&M in 2011? Not a chance. Isabel Marant Pour H&M in 2013? Two hopes (Bob Hope and No Hope). Peter Pilotto for Target? Yes!

Time Out recently featured a fantastic piece by Miriam Bouteba with tips gathered from Topshop staff, insiders and whistleblowers on how to get a piece of Kate. I take matters of fashion very seriously and so I have done my research and worked out what I want. I have read and studied all the articles. I have watched the videos. I am prepped and ready.

I am unable to camp outside or spend the next few days in queues or with my elbows out (I have a job). I simply cannot face the scrum and furore at Topshop's flagship Oxford Street store tomorrow, where the launch of the collection will take place before other stockists and sites launch the next day. It is rumoured Kate Moss will make a personal appearance. Which makes me feel a bit funny, but alas I cannot be there.

Instead I will be safely and securely ensconced in a pub with my best friend. I will, however, attempt to follow the live streaming launch event on Grazia Daily and I will be online shopping from 8.00 am on Wednesday 30 April from the comfort of my own Macbook Air.

The collection is super-cool. I particularly love the Pyjama Dressing collection - Delicate Prints and Soho Silk - and rock-influenced pieces; the fringed leather jacket is amazing (reportedly her 'gig' jacket that she has worn to three Rolling Stones concerts).

My favourite pieces I hope to get my hands on are below.

I still look to Kate. I still am keen to covet her inspirational wardrobe, her unbeatable style, her presence. The way that her collections are always music-focused. She is fabulous at 40 and still culturally relevant.  Tell me your success stories. I'd love to know how you get on.

For all the hoo ha, forgive me.  I'm unashamedly a Mossoholic.

The collection will be available online and in-store at Topshop, as well as Nordstrom, Nordstrom.com and Net-a-porter.com for the first time from 30 April 2014. 

You can see every piece from the hotly anticipated collection here by visiting Vogue.co.uk 

References:

Time Out London No. 2274, April 22 - 28 - A big piece of Kate by Miriam Bouteba

Look Magazine, 14 April 2014 - 'My Hot Picks from my New Topshop Collection by Lucy Wood

I look to Kate

I am Kate Moss's secret stalker. I am obsessed with her. I think I'm just like everyone else because we all wish we were one of her best friends - but we're not, so all we can do is wonder what that must be like.

Sarah Jessica Parker, Grazia UK, 13 January 2014

Kate Moss turns 40 this Thursday.

Ordinarily, that kind of news would induce a bit of a gloomy episode on my part. When one of your fashion icons, who fully deserves that often hackneyed label, advances in age and only a five-year gap separates you, cold hard reality reminds you are no spring chicken yourself. Where has the time disappeared to?

But instead, as Kate (I can't do 'Mossy' - way too impersonal for someone so enigmatic) prepares to celebrate reaching this fabulous milestone, reportedly on Necker Island, I am instead full of mirth, buoyant and commemorative. I am chilling the bubbles, dusting off the credit card, sharpening the old black kohl, digging out my skinny jeans and wearing a vintage cape in her honour. You can bet Kate will not let something as silly as becoming a quadragenarian get in her way of out-partying everyone with conviction and looking completely stunning in the process. Standard.

Kate has been at the top of her game since her iconic cover of The Face in 1990, photographed by the late Corinne Day. I have followed her style, her life, her loves and her London partying religiously ever since. She remains an inspiration to me, and if the truth be told, a mild obsession as I try my hardest to emulate her look - commensurate to my bank account and day job. She has crammed quite a lot into her 39 years to date and I am fascinated by the multi faceted roles that she plays. Supermodel, muse, designer, mother, lover, wife, friend, Londoner.

She remains suitably mysterious and elusive, keeping a tantalising silence and letting the photos do all the talking. She made the decision not to talk to the press, to never complain and to never explain. This is wonderfully refreshing in the age where younger models incessantly tweet, share and Instagram their selves to over-exposure. Conversely, Kate keeps us guessing, wanting more, secretly Googling, scouring Vogue and YouTube for the latest sighting to get a glimpse of what she is wearing, how she is wearing it, where she is.

Kate is my life / style comparator, my benchmark, my litmus paper if you will.  I look to Kate when I am considering my outfit choice in direct ratio to my age. Whether my clothes, behaviours and actions are age-appropriate if you like. For example:

• Question: Am I too old to wear leather trousers/shorts/jackets?
• Question: Will I look a total berk wearing over-sized sunglasses during the day?
• Question: Is my skirt too short?
• Question: Should I STILL be going to festivals, planning my outfit months in advance and wearing shorts that risk minor bum-exposure?
• Question: Should my skinny jeans be banished to the back of the wardrobe now, in favour of something a bit, um, looser?
• Question: Have I drunk too much given it is 3pm in the afternoon? On Sunday.
• Question: Am I too old to have numerous piercings, and in particular a helix piercing on both sides?
• Question: Will people think I am ridiculous, shallow and a bit eccentric for falling out of a bar whilst wearing a sparkly 1920s cape?
• Question: Should I now be shopping in Hobbs/Reiss/Coast rather than hunting around vintage stores, wearing gig t-shirts, skinny jeans and studded boots?
• Question: Should I save for a sofa rather than going away on holiday again /taking a city break?

Answers:

No. Kate would do it, or is doing it now, right this minute. Proceed.

That is the thing with Kate. She wouldn't even hesitate, she wouldn't care if people looked, nudged their mate, tutted, raised their eyes to heaven. She would just go ahead and do it. Admittedly, she is a supermodel with a sizeable wedge of cash in the bank and invested in fancy properties. Yes, she has a killer body and a hairdresser, stylist, makeup artist and dermatologist at her beck and call; but you see this is about attitude, this is about being.

Part of the appeal is that Kate permanently looks like she is on a bit of a bender. She is bohemian, debauched Rock 'n' roll hedonism immortalised. She is just too cool. She is incredibly beautiful with glowing skin and hair, yet it is her imperfections that make her even more stunning. She has always been a bit of an exception to the rule; just slightly below the standard model height, drinks and smokes liberally, possibly does not get that much sleep - but the endurable Kate carries on regardless to spectacular effect - and so she should. She is Kate Moss.

Twenty five fabulous years have come and gone.

Happy Birthday Kate, may the party continue long into the night (and the next day).

My favourite shots of Kate can be found in Vogue's Style File - Kate Moss.

 

ISABEL MARANT POUR H&M

I am plagued with anxiety this week about a looming deadline. THURSDAY 14 NOVEMBER. It has been sitting, waiting patiently for a while now in my diary. Written in huge scrawling letters, in blue pen no less - not pencil, as indicates its significance. It is even double underlined.

It keeps me awake at night, images fluttering around my head and unnerving thoughts of how I can make it possible, how I can achieve this seemingly impossible feat. It is not directly associated with my day job, which itself is jammed full of deadlines and dates and the like, nor thankfully does it have a direct impact on my health or relationship with my husband, family or friends. Debatably.

Yet, it is nearly here and I am nervously perspiring a little more each day as it looms and will finally reach its climactic end.

Isabel Marant's much awaited collaboration with H&M finally hits stores and online this Thursday.

What? Me? Dramatic you say? Your heart was racing for nothing? Pah! You may consider me theatrical, perhaps roll your eyes upwards to heaven, but believe me when I say this is a huge, huge deal. Gargantuan. It has been firmly in my diary since the news first broke back in June and in my eyes all November days lead to Marant.

Isabel Marant is arguably the most influential womenswear designer of our time. She has singlehandedly changed the way we dress. As the fabulous Mimi Spencer recently said, No one has done more to author the look of the decade than Marant. I would bet my entire collection of Vogue that you wear at least one of the following items: Printed trousers, ankle boots, a studded something. Bashed-about leather. Skinny jeans with an ankle-grazing cut. A beautiful embroidered jacket, a grey marl T-shirt and of course the ubiquitous wedge-heeled trainers that have been imitated so widely but never beaten. Yes? Well, you have already been touched by the power of Marant, and its rock n’ roll bohemian edge has snared you in its fabulous trap.

Marant, born and raised in Paris, started her eponymous label in 1994 after graduating from the acclaimed Studio Bercot and working her way up through the fashion line. The A/W 2010 collection saw the hit python print pattern while S/S and A/W of 2010 brought us leather motocross trousers and fringed cowboy boots. The collection for H&M edit of the key pieces taken from her archive. So in effect you can get your hands on a reinterpreted piece of fashion history.

That effortless, casual insouciance and very Parisian way of dressing has always remained firmly in my head / look book / magazines but devastatingly never ever in my wardrobe due to its significant price tag, despite the diffusion line Etoile being a slightly more affordable option (if I forewent food).

However, an affordable way to channel Marant / Carine Roitfeld / Lou Doillon and those other French hotties is now all but a finger’s grasp/click away. Plus there is a menswear debut for the Parisian brand, which is exciting in itself, and a campaign that features Milla Jovovich, Doillon, Daria Werbowy and Saskia de Brauw, as well as male models Guillaume Macé, Clément Chabernaud, and Niels Schneider. Zut alors!

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ci7JMO-YrI&w=420&h=315]

Yet, is it a case of so near yet so far as I fear? To purchase a piece of Marant presents the following dilemmas:

1. Going to my nearest participating H&M store. Gulp. Queuing at dawn, or perhaps camping out and sleeping in a sodden tent, sharpening my elbows, pushing other hungry fashionistas keen for a piece of the Marant magnificence, tussling over a printed sweatshirt or chainmail cuff. Plus, the last time I visited the flagship Oxford Street store to buy something from the Paris Fashion Week Collection, they had an in-store DJ. She was dancing. It was 2.15 pm in the afternoon. Time, energy and age are not on my side - I know only too well what determined twenty-somethings can be like, I used to be one. In addition, I have a very busy day job and thus kicking myself for not booking the day off in advance. There is also The Queuing System in place specifically for the ladieswear collection, which sounds terrifying. There are coloured bracelets, allocated to groups of twenty customers, and the colour determines when it is your time to shop/fight. So I am hoping positively there will be something left post-5pm as opposed to a solitary jacket in a not-my-size size.
2. Being alert and ready online at 09:00 on the dot, and super sharp with my clicking to purchase via the website. After all, I have done my research, I have planned and plotted and prepared for this deadline. I have studied every single one of the fifty-two iconic pieces, deliberated and subsequently selected what I want, saving ferociously. When it comes to fashion I am a certified Grade-A geek and I hope my hard work will reap the rewards. Should be easy, right? No website crashes, no other clever clogs with the same idea? Reasonably (tut) purchases are limited to a maximum of one item per person ‘so that everyone can buy something from Isabel Marant pour H&M' so this makes my head kind of spin. I also have an afore-mentioned day job that I love and do not think shouting PLEASE WAIT I AM BUYING ISABEL MARANT POUR H&M will cut it.
3. Purchasing on eBay, although there is talk that the collection has already found its way on to the online auctioning website thanks to some people buying pieces at a preview sale and sneakily putting them online at hugely exaggerated (example). How business savvy. How impertinent.

So it looks like I am going to have to work hard for my fringing and my tribal prints. I am having dreams (nightmares) about the trophy jacket with beaded embroidery (£199) selling out - but I am going to try my damnedest to get it even if I cause myself an injury, a Marant malaise if you will.

I am not sure my nerves are quite up to this but I'll keep you posted. It will be brutal.

Good luck out there…

Isabel Marant for H&M launches in-store and online from November 14.

http://www.hm.com/gb/isabel-marant#see_all

http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/news/isabel-marant-h-m

http://www.isabelmarant.com/en/

I consider this collection a gift to my lovers...

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmzRLasJpp0&w=420&h=315]