The Canonbury Pub - London, N1

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Apparently there are over 7,000 pubs in London.

'Wow, that’s a lot of pubs!' I hear you exclaim. Yes, it is, but if you're a Londoner or someone who has spent any time at all in our great city, you will be well aware that Londoners do love a good public house. London pubs come in many guises, including ‘old man’s pub’, ‘gastro-pub’ and ‘packed new hip place in Shoreditch with Bingo on a Wednesday, pale ale and achingly trendy people in sweatshirts’.

Personally, I find it hard to slot The Canonbury into any kind of category other than ‘a good one’. It's part-gastro, a-little-bit-posh and very stylish indeed. Situated a stone’s throw away from the highly desirable Canonbury Square in Islington and tucked secretly away from the wonderful buzz of Upper Street, it offers a well stocked bar and restaurant in relaxed and elegant surroundings that remain in keeping with the village-like, leafy area it nestles in.

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It is also a discreet piece of London literary history. A regular haunt of George Orwell, the Canonbury was one of the pubs the author amalgamated for his classic 1946 essay The Moon Under the Water (reference: London's Top Five Pub Gardens, Robin Turner, the Guardian, 27 July 2012)

I have frequented The Canonbury on New Year’s Day for a glass (or five) of celebratory fizz with friends, for a three-course lunch with family young and old on a bustling Saturday afternoon and for a pint (or five) while watching the rugby. This is partly why I return – on any occasion the tasteful decor, friendly staff and delicious food never disappoint. If the weather is behaving, the roomy garden with distinctive brown wicker seats is a great place to while away an afternoon in the sunshine. This is London of course, so admittedly it is inside where I have spent most of my time sampling cider in the cosy warmth.

A perfect Saturday afternoon in my eyes starts with a leisurely stroll around Canonbury taking in the grand homes and New River Walk. Then slip into The Canonbury for a pint and some cracking food. Stay awhile to experience some real ale or a good bottle of vino, and then, contentedly leave with a happy heart and a full belly… and go in search for more fun on Upper Street.

Your night has only just begun.

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The Canonbury Pub

21 Canonbury Place

London

N1 2NS

020 7704 2887

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Reference: London's Top Five Pub Gardens, Robin Turner, the Guardian, 27 July 2012

Dishoom!

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So to Covent Garden on a beautiful, boisterous Thursday night in London where the autumnal light was suitably golden and there was music and merriment in the crisp air (and excessive post-work wine). A perfect night to visit Dishoom, London's first ever Bombay Café and a modern, fresh interpretation on Indian food.

Dishoom first opened its ornate doors in Covent Garden in July 2010 and is named after an old Bollywood sound effect, made when the brave hero lands a cracking good punch, or when a bullet flies through the air. It is similar to popular slang usage of the expression mojo or he's got Dishoom!, and mojo it certainly has evident by the sizeable queue of patient diners chattering outside (and offered a steaming hot chai to warm their cockles while they waited). The original ‘Irani’ Cafés of Bombay, which inspired Dishoom, were abundant at the beginning of the 20th century, and welcomed people from all walks of life across the vast city – rich businessmen would sip chai next to sweaty taxi-wallahs, courting couples, and writers finding their character.

From almost four hundred at their peak in the 1960’s, sadly there are now fewer than thirty remaining, as commercialism and expansion dominated the city of Bombay. Dishoom draws on the heritage of these cafés, with their all-day menu paying homage to the food of Bombay and they are keen to capture some part of this disappearing tradition, and share it with us hungry Londoners. Dishoom's Chowpatty Beach bar sprung up on the South Bank from May to October 2011, closely followed by a second café in Shoreditch in October 2011.

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So, back to the other bustling city of London. On entering Dishoom, pow, your senses are immediately awakened, in an exhilarating way instead of a great big in-your-face kind of way. The decor is striking with rich panelled floors, fans whirling slowly to cool the sizzling air and sepia photos of ancestors and Bombay starlets in wooden frames adorning pistachio brick walls. This creates a sensational visual display and each tells a fascinating story of its own. The restaurant is classy and stylish, and although the queue and hard-to-get-a-table offers a sense of exclusivity, Dishoom manages to do what other modern restaurants can often fail - make you feel welcome and part of a big gang of mates rather than grateful to be there, and the faded elegance welcomes all. Your mates for the night are a mixture of hot young things, distinguished ladies and gentleman, chattering friends, and chic couples and Marcus Wareing was dining on the night, which was a very good sign. Yet, there's no snobbery here. Dishoom could afford to be a bit sniffy if it jolly well felt like it but instead it doesn't take itself too seriously or compromise on its values, instead treating you like a long-lost friend come round for tea.

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The toilets are a sight to behold. Yes, I did say the toilets. Although I cannot speak confidently about the gents (that would be weird), the ladies' loo has huge pictures of the champion Parsi body builders from the 1960s and vintage Indian toiletries in medicine cabinets provide a point of interest, and charm, while you, ahem, go on with your business.

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I had vowed to stay firmly on the wagon the night I visited, but the Dishoom cocktail menu laughed heartily in the face of my abstinence. They could see right through me; they knew my game and that I am partial to a tipple or two. Before I had the chance to feebly make my excuses, I found myself with a flute of the delicious BollyBellini in my hand, and disappointed I was not. With sweet raspberries and lychees, fragrant rose and cardamom topped off with sparkling first-class Prosecco it was a bellini to be reckoned with. The menu describes it as a very pretty missy and pretty it was, although I fear after one too many of these easily drinkable delights this here blogger would not be a pretty missy, rather a shouty and dancing mess.

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Enough of the decor and the loo's and my unnecessary tales of tipsiness. It is, of course, the food you are clamouring to know about and my goodness, it does not disappoint. At Dishoom the menu is easy, welcoming and not too try-hard, with distinct strong flavours, tasty marinades and food that gives the impression it is created using good, quality produce. The all-day café menu takes inspiration from the food of Bombay. Our waiter, the very amiable Keith, encouraged us to order a number of small dishes and share the feast among ourselves and we took his very sound advice. We started with some Far Far, described on the menu as a carnival of snackery, which were like a salty, lemony, crisp-popadum hybrid that conjured up memories from our childhood.

Being a vegetarian, for once, is advantageous in Dishoom as it caters so well but it does not discriminate against carnivores. Fellow meaty diners tucked in to a number of Grills on offer, including Spicy Lamb Chops marinated in lime juice, ginger, warm dark spices and jaggery - a traditional uncentrifuged sugar consumed in Asia and Africa. The Bhel was heartily recommended - puffed rice, the infamous Bombay Mix and savoury nylon sev, all tossed beautifully with fresh pomegranate, tomato, onion and lime, tamarind and mint that worked together so harmoniously.

The Ruby Murray's were tasty and satisfying - including a silky Chicken Ruby and as someone who never really felt like cheese with my ruby, I am now a Paneer devotee, thanks to Dishoom's Paneer Tikka, marinated and then gently charred with red and green capsicums.  I'll let you discover the rest of the main menu for yourself, but DO NOT leave Dishoom without gobbling greedily the Gunpowder Potatoes - spuds in brown skins, smoky-grilled and tumbled seductively with butter, green herbs and crushed aromatic seeds. You'll finish them, look around sheepishly and think to yourself, will I look like a gluttonous pig if I suggest ordering one more portion? before going ahead and ordering unabashedly anyway.

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Leave room for dessert but if your belly is bursting, attempt to share with friends. We shared the Kala Khatta Gola Ice, and before tucking in were warned that the first spoonful tastes bizarre, the second is captivating, and we unanimously agreed. Fluffy flakes of ice soaked gloriously in kokum fruit syrup, blueberries, chilli, lime and white and black salt - this was more than a palate cleanser, it was a powerful taste explosion in your mouth with a huge kick. It had mojo.

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Staff are attentive, knowledgable and so affable by the end of the night high on spice and life and one too many BollyBellini's you find yourself wanting to stay in touch, have a beer, swap email addresses etc but thank goodness you stop embarrassing yourself. Our waiter Keith was a gem - he knew the menu inside out, stopped us over ordering unnecessarily and was there with spare napkins and cutlery before we even realised we were without.

My initial dealings with Dishoom were by email, as an enquiring and humble blogger, with the fantastic Tom, Dishoom's Marketing-wallah and Dipak, Reservations-wallah, both absolutely top blokes. They shared with me proudly that Dishoom freely admit to having a sentimental side (too much Bollywood), and they love to see a birthday party celebrated well - that is, starting with something spicy, and ending with singing and dancing. How could anyone resist that?

So, to summarise Dishoom in my opinion it is slicker than your average. It is wallet and taste-bud friendly and serves fresh, modern indian food in a stylish, buzzing and beautiful place. The decor is gorgeously kitsch and ornate and the beautiful magentas, teals and vintage artwork is right up my street. The service is impeccable - from the initial chai in the queue, from entrance to bar to table and everything in between, and combined with the food this gives everything an impeccable, flawless finish. We were treated like VIPs, but with just the right amount of fuss.

Delectable Dishoom, you are vibrant, you have swagger. I cannot wait to see you and your mojo again soon, if you will have me.

Posters
DISHOOM
Dishoom Shoreditch – 7 Boundary Street, London E2 7JE
Dishoom Covent Garden – 12 Upper St. Martin’s Lane, London WC2H 9FB
www.dishoom.com
Become a Facebook Dishoom-wallah for news, events, gifts and suchlike: www.facebook.com/dishoomlondon
Follow us on Twitter – we're quite random: www.twitter.com/dishoom
 

 

 

Drawing the Stars - Andreya Triana

White LogoLast week on a brisk evening in London, I had the honour of reviewing the superbly talented Andreya Triana in residence at XOYO, Shoreditch for Jazz FM.

Triana is a singer-songwriter hailing from Brixton and began singing at an early age, influenced by the diverse sights and sounds around her. In 2007, she featured on the hugely popular Reset EP produced by hip hop pioneer Flying Lotus, with Tea Leaf Dancers showcasing her hypnotic voice to perfection. She has since collaborated with the likes of Mr Scruff on tracks including the infectious Here We Go and Bonobo (British producer, musician and DJ Simon Green) on the Black Sands album.

Her acclaimed debut album Lost Where I Belong, released in 2010, was produced by Bonobo and features the two working with live musicians and samples to create a classic yet contemporary sound. Fellow Ninja Tune singer and songwriter Fink (British singer, songwriter and producer Fin Greenall) co-wrote two tracks for the album - Lost Where I Belong and Far Closer. It is a charmingly raw and honest piece of music fusing a number of influences including soul and jazz and should feature on any self-respecting music fan's playlist.

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I discovered Triana at the monumental Jazz FM Love Supreme festival in July and have been listening on repeat ever since. So it was in the smoky, intimate space at XOYO that I had the chance to hear her live again. There was anticipated chatter in the air as the cool but amiable crowd nodded along to Mirror Signal, Triana's accomplished support act, who made waiting for the main lady very painless indeed.

At 9.15 pm sharp the lights suddenly lowered and in a flash she appeared, eyes closed, that unmistakably sultry voice singing her upcoming single Best is Yet to Come, so clearly, so melodically that the crowd were momentarily stunned into respectful silence. 'London!' she addressed the crowd boldly with her husky London accent and breaking the stillness, 'You gorgeous people!' and the gorgeous people laughed and held on to her every note.

On stage, Triana is charming and ebullient. Despite possessing a talent that surpasses anything else in the room, she makes you feel as though she is your best mate, someone you could genuinely hang out with and have a glass of wine or three. Two songs in, she declared with a cheeky grin that it was 'the time of the show where the shoes come off! I thought I'd last longer but I didn't...' and I admired her candour and self-deprecation, as I wiggled my toes in uncomfortably high boots.

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Triana has a unique style and strong creative identity and she illuminated the stage in a colourful marble print trouser suit from Topshop and print shirt from ASOS, paired with a huge orange ring. Her website finely exhibits that inimitable style – prints, beautifully opulent oversized necklaces, striking colours – as well as musical influences. Style and personality aside though, it is the music that enthrals. As resonant guitar chords opened the largely acoustic Changing Shapes of Love you could hear raw emotion and the intensity of her voice live is compelling. She dedicated Everything You Never Had to her Mum and affirmed her extensive vocal range, including a captivating subtlety that transforms her songs into something profoundly personal.

The set list seamlessly intertwined the old with the new including Not Today with a thumping drum beat and Lost Where I Belong, a personal favourite of mine, and clearly the crowd’s too given the excited reaction it received. This is a stunning track, with an instantly recognisable and infectious chorus and the audience joined in eagerly, substitute backing singers to her lead vocal. Even a colossal great crunch of ice from the bar couldn't spoil the moment; the unwanted disruption was handled with the typical charm and poise that Triana exudes at her live shows.

She performs with a loop pedal on stage to enhance and densely layer her vocals, used to amplifying effect on her cover of Sweet Dreams, and with strong vocal hooks, catchy guitar riffs, and reggae-influenced baselines her performance was a celebration of brilliant music.

Far too quickly, it was time for her to leave the stage but no, we did not want it to end thank you very much. We demanded an encore,  stomped our feet and clapped our hands in thunderous protest. Fortunately, she was teasing us as the best was yet to come. On her Lost Where I Belong album opener Draw the Stars, Triana was at her melodic best, with accompanying acoustic guitar and twinkling xylophone. Her cover of Alicia Keys' Not Even the King mesmerised the audience into gratified silence. 'It kills me' she said about the song and its emotive lyrics as couples smooched and potential couples sidestepped a bit closer, exchanging covert smiles. As she ended triumphantly with Far Closer, this was a job well and truly done. I got to meet the great lady at the end of the show and she was as beguiling, engaging and lovely in person as she is on stage.

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Triana is currently preparing new material for her second album (and potentially a preceding EP), much of which she has been previewing at her recent shows. Leaving XOYO and stepping out into the cool night air, I felt just like I did after seeing her perform at Love Supreme - excited to discover more of her material and keen to shout out about this talented, home-grown rising star.

So, now I'm shouting loudly. Go listen.

https://soundcloud.com/andreyatriana
http://andreyatriana.tumblr.com
http://www.jazzfm.com/
Vote here for Love Supreme Festival at the UK Festival Awards 2013

 

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