Fashion through a Legendary Lens

Sometimes it is possible to stumble across an image that you simply cannot look away from. The vibrant colours, the beauty of the subject, the setting and the overall composition - these elements can lock your gaze until you realise many minutes have passed since you first looked at it. You completely forget where you are.

This is how I remember feeling when I first saw this photograph, taken by Norman Parkinson for the cover of Vogue in 1957.  It still has that effect on me now.

Norman Parkinson was a preeminent British photographer who went on to create a dazzling portfolio of the most elegant and creative images the fashion world has ever seen. Born in 1913 in London, he was apprenticed to a portrait photographers, Speaight and Sons Ltd., and then by the age of twenty-one had opened his own studio with Norman Kibblewhite.

Shortly after, he worked for the British edition of Harper's Bazaar from 1935 to 1940, and then served as a reconnaissance photographer for the Royal Air France over France during the Second World War.

He went on to contribute to many established publications throughout his successful and illustrious career, including Queen magazine, where he was contributing editor for four years. From 1945 to 1960, and in perhaps the most recognised and successful strand of his career, he was employed by Vogue as a portrait and fashion photographer. It was a perfectly compatible relationship and one that spawned so many iconic images.

In 1963, Parkinson moved to Tobago although he made frequent returns to his native London, and worked as a freelance photographer until his sad and premature death in 1990. He was known as a charming, funny and very clever man. He never took a photograph without wearing his lucky Kashmiri wedding hat and often appeared in his own photos.

Grace Coddington, Creative Director of American Vogue, described Parkinson as her mentor after first meeting him on a Vogue shoot in 1971 in The Seychelles. She stayed friends with him until his death in 1990 and said that 'Parks was the father anyone would want to have.'

Parkinson also took his subjects out of the confines of his studio and into the real, and very beautiful outside world. Arguably, some of his most recognisable work comes from his photo shoot for Vogue in 1956, when the magazine opened up India for its readers nearly a decade after its independence and displayed the unimaginable beauty of this exotic location. He photographed models Anne Gunning and Barbara Mullen and produced sumptuous compositions with dazzling reds, pink and magentas that dazzled.

The beautiful images even had an impression on Diana Vreeland, Editor in Chief of US Vogue who commented 'How clever of you, Mr Parkinson, also to know that pink is the navy blue of India'.

An exhibition of Parkinson's work in the form of original vintage prints is now being held at M Shed gallery in Bristol until 15 April 2012, appropriately entitled An Eye for Fashion, 1954 - 1964. This will be the first time some of the images have been displayed in public.

Angela Williams, who worked as his assistant in the early 1960s and a successful photographer in her own right, has carefully catalogued and researched the archive to preserve his great legacy.

Norman Parkinson revolutionised the world of British photography and the wit, warmth and elegance of his work still lives on today. He had an unwavering appetite for fashion and location photography and the also legendary Irving Penn considered his photographs as 'remarkable stills'.

I still get lost in these remarkable stills. I hope you will too.

Fashionably padded elbows at the ready

Those in the know and anyone who generally reads a newspaper or periodically flicks through a fashion magazine will know that H&M’s most exciting and long-awaited alliance to date is about to drop.

Yes, Versace’s collaboration with H&M finally hits UK stores this Thursday, 17 November. Founded by Donatella Versace’s late brother Gianni in 1978, Versace is one of the biggest-selling designer labels with eighty-two boutiques worldwide. After saying no to H&M’s approach for a collection four years ago, Donatella finally agreed. Apparently, Lady Gaga herself was the inspiration for the collection after Gaga’s excited reaction to the Versace archive earlier this year made Donatella view the designs through fresh eyes. Lucky Gaga.

I will be at a wedding on Thursday so will not be there to witness the madness that awaits each of the H&M stores that will stock the treasures. No camping outside the store the night before for me, no need to hatch a cunning plan to ensure I am first in the queue. No other dare devil escapades to bag myself a piece of the action for when luxury high-fashion designer meets high street champion. So with no sharpening of elbows or dusting off the sleeping bag required I will just have to wait and see if there is any thing left among the remnants when the hungry shoppers have finally departed. Failing that I will scoot around on eBay.

Having seen the collection online a couple of weeks ago (which includes metallic, suede and fluorescent footwear, big and bold jewellery and even home accessories) and analysed it in more detail in all its splendour in today’s Grazia magazine I am totally in two minds.

Part of me absolutely adores it. The collection certainly has not been diluted for the high street and is unmistakingly Versace. It contains shouty studded leather, exuberant prints and bags adorned with chains and gold that to me conjures up images of the ebullient '90s. It slowly creeps up on you and shouts ‘FASHION!’ really loudly in your face which I love.

Anna Dello Russo has already worn the studded leather dress at Paris Fashion Week:

Nicky Minaj, always brilliantly bonkers, wore head to toe black floral at the launch party in NYC:

Yet, part of me is still indeterminate. The printed trousers undoubtedly will look fabulous in Milan but I would feel a complete twit in clashing exotic floral prints crammed on the Victoria line with someone's armpit in my face. The shift dress embellished with studs is one of my favourite pieces for sure, but it is currently seven degrees outside and the thought of flashing my legs in that makes me feel hypothermic and in need of a blanket.

Then again I have just reviewed my previous paragraph and I am ashamed to be so staid and boring. The collection is fun, totally fashion-fabulous and brightens up the dreary world outside. How could you not smile wearing a piece of history that both you and your wallet are thankful for?

Unfortunately, I will not be part of the galloping stampede, but if anyone plans to queue up or sleep over on Thursday, could you please pick me up the  Studded Silk Shift, Miami Print Skirt and Black Silk Dress?

Please? Cheers.

See the full collection here:

Defy the gloom - embellish!

You do not need to take a peek outside right now to know that winter is nearly upon us. There is a damp chill in the air that seeps into your coat sleeves and gets under your skin. By 5.00pm this evening the inky darkness will surround you. Winter - a season to hibernate; to cocoon yourself in numerous layers and disappear into the duskiness.

Or not. Ladies, it is time to grab winter by both arms, give it a very firm shake and say NO, I refuse to fade into the background and defy the gloom with a bold, beautiful dress.

Take a big step out of your comfort zone and experiment with texture, embellishment and colour to beat the winter blues. Key trends are feathers, texture, baroque, metallic sequins and bead adornments to name but a few. Feather dresses are a strong sign of the Twenties influence which is permeating the fashion world ahead of the release of the Baz Luhrmann directed The Great Gatsby in December 2012. Beads and sequins are the perfect items to make a striking statement and shine in the gloom.

How do the designers do it?

How do the stylish people wear it?

What is the vintage inspiration?

Lucien Lelong

Lucien Lelong was the son of two nineteenth-century couturiers and from 1937 to 1947 he was President of the Chamber Syndicate de la Couture Parisienne, haute couture's governing body. His style and design included tightly waisted, full-skirted dresses that preempted Christian Dior's famed 1947 New Look.

Norman Norell

Norman Norell was one of the first American designers to have his name on the label of a dress. He designed empire-line and chemise dresses and pavé sequined capes and dresses under the Traina-Norell label.

OK, but where can we get it?

Try out something adventurous. Let your personality sparkle and shine through.

Go turn heads.

RIHANNA ROCKS. Um, really?

The November edition of UK Vogue has just landed on my desk with a thump, bringing with it the turn of the season and an army of delicious autumnal fashion to do battle with the drop in temperature. (OK, that's a lie. I bought it myself from the magazine kiosk on the Euston Road with £4.10 scraped together with the last two and one pence pieces in my wallet, but the former sounds much more glamorous and fashion-y as befits the style bible).

Anyway I digress. Staring back at me defiantly from the sky-blue cover in Giorgio Armani Privé and short blonde wig was Rihanna. I felt disappointed. My usual enthusiasm deflated like a burst balloon.

Rihanna is a beautiful, successful and talented young woman at the top of her game and her Vogue debut has been highly anticipated – plus we all know celebrity sells magazines. I (only just) accept the fashion connection – her style evolution has been fascinating to watch and she steps out in all the right names. Finally, I applaud Condé Nast for recognising that not all Vogue readers are white, emaciated and hail from Notting Hill (although the cover comes not without some controversy - Alexandra Shulman has had to respond to the blogosphere and confirm that no skin lightening has taken place for Rihanna’s cover).

What I do have a considerable problem with is that ultimately I no longer consider Rihanna to be an empowering role model for women, due to the tiresome onslaught of raunchy images and lazy and offensive lyrics. I am bored of the vulgarity – she may be bad but she’s perfectly good at being degrading.

Before I am accused of being prudish, I am not a prude. A couple of Rihanna tracks have been hanging around on my iPod for a while now and I can’t deny that I’ve probably danced along after a few drinks in a club. Plus, if men can talk openly about sex through the medium of music then why the hell can’t women? Madonna's been leading that battle for decades. As Dodai Stewart, deputy editor of the US pop culture blog Jezebel, points out, female artists are systematically encouraged to capitalise on their sexuality. 'Female artists are definitely sexualised more often, which helps sell albums, but they're also criticised for being so sexual. Women can't win'.

This may be true, but Rihanna is not helping the battle. On the cover of Rolling Stone magazine in April 2011 she is described as Pop’s Queen of Pain and we are seduced into turning the page to find out about Sexting, Bad Boys & Her Attraction to the Dark Side. Yawn.

Jay-Z was photographed on the cover of the same publication in a suit and a tie. Much more interesting.

So, why has it got to be dirty and submissive to get attention? Rihanna says she is no role model and wishes people would stop trying to make her into one. In the Vogue article she says ‘people – especially white people – they want me to be a role model just because of the life I lead. The things I say in my songs, they expect it of me and [being a role model] became more of my job than I wanted it to be’. Like it or not Rihanna, being in the spotlight and all the advantages of success bring some responsibility - women, especially young girls, automatically look up to you (and men are looking you up and down).

To me, Rihanna continues to present an extreme portrayal of female over-sexualisation. You can’t escape the demeaning lyrics. When I see the music videos for S&M and Love the Way you Lie I don’t see art or something to admire. I see the glamorisation of domestic violence. Which is not romantic. It is just ugly. Her new video for We Found Love? Seen. It. All. Before.

It was Natasha Walter and Kat Banyard who last year were campaigning for a change in the law to stop the ‘pornification’ of society which they said promotes violence against women. Rihanna is hardly doing the cause any favours with her own take on pop-porn. Is this really the message we want to send out to our future stars – wear less, shatter the boundaries and give the men what they want?

I persevered and read the Vogue article in full, searching for something other than raunchiness and I was surprised that she came across as quite endearing and earnest. She has sold over sixty million singles and twenty million albums and is also involved in many philanthropic projects, with her own Believe Foundation created in 2006 to help terminally ill children. So why don’t we see more of this rather than her backside?

So, that is why I am ultimately disappointed with the choice of cover for November. You can reserve this type of 'role model' for all the Zoo, Maxim and FHM readers; for the men who still think it’s acceptable to shout abuse at women in the street or grope women in a bar after a few too many drinks, thank you very much.

The December issue of Vogue featuring a strong, intelligent woman who cares about other women? Cheers. I’ll (Drink to That).

Meeting Manolo Blahnik...and a very nasty bump on the head

The night I met Manolo Blahnik was one to remember for lots of reasons.

When I heard he was in discussion with Colin McDowell at the marvellous Design Museum, I simply could not let this momentous fashion collaboration pass me by. My interest in the legendary McDowell’s fashion journalism has picked up pace over the last few months and like many others from the Sex and the City generation, I adored Blahnik’s coveted shoes – this wasn’t just footwear after all, it was art.

I snapped up a ticket and waited with anticipation. As I made my way along Butler’s Wharf that cold night to the beautiful ghost white building, I allowed myself, just for a moment, to feel a little bit like Carrie.

Mr Blahnik did not disappoint. I was left spellbound by the man as well as the shoes. Looking resplendent in a spotted bow tie and amethyst suit, he joined his friend McDowell on the stage to discuss his fascinating life and career to date. He disclosed the inspiration for those exuberant shoes and gave the audience an exciting insight into the Manolo behind the magic.

I sat eagerly in the small and intimate audience as he led me on an educational journey into the gorgeous world of fashion; the moment in time when he was introduced to Diana Vreeland, former editor of US Vogue, in 1971 and was instructed to ‘go make shoes’. In 1972, he worked for Ossie Clark in London where his shoes were sought after by Grace Coddington and Jane Birkin to name but a few and where he collaborated with Jean Muir.

I watched in awe as he sketched incredible designs there and then with the image projected live onto a screen for the audience’s pleasure. My favourite, a beautiful purple court shoe with a huge bow, was drawn with perfectly natural ease and flair. I was mesmerised.

I did not want the discussion to end, but sadly it had to. As the conversation came to a close, I joined a long line of eager fashion fanatics, awaiting the chance to meet him and take away a personally signed copy of his exquisite book Manolo’s New Shoes. After what felt like an hour, at last I found myself facing the great man.

He smiled graciously, a huge warm grin, and thanked me for waiting and coming out into the cold evening to see him. I had purchased two books, with one for my Mum as a birthday present and he signed both, his huge, animated writing leaping off the page. He asked for my Mum’s name and smiled and wrote, Linda, you have a beautiful daughter. I bet he said that to all the ladies, but nonetheless, he charmed me right out of my shoes. He was enchanting.

After dinner, I floated home. On the tube I looked over the sketches in the book, thinking constantly about the great man and what I had learnt that evening. As I slipped dreamily into a taxi, still on a wonderful high and planning just how I could save up to buy those beautiful purple courts, something rather disastrous happened. I misjudged the distance between my head and the taxi door and the two met with a huge CRACK.

The taxi driver asked if I was OK and I laughed it off and said I was and thanked him for his concern. I rubbed my sore head and ignored the pain, not wanting to ruin the wonderful evening I had experienced.

I made it into work the next morning, took some painkillers and battled through meetings and deadlines. It was only when I started to slur my words and experience tingling in my arms and legs that I suspected this wasn’t just the Blahnik-effect. I was rushed into a taxi by my Manager to A&E and after a feel around the large bump on my head, the diagnosis was delivered. Concussion.

I was ordered to stay in bed and rest. No laptop, no Blackberry, no iPhone, books, no nothing. Just sleep. I missed my Christmas party. I lost three days through sleeping. I attended a meeting with my fiancé at the local registry office to serve notice of our impending marriage with hugely dilated pupils and suspiciously black eyes. I tried desperately to remember my own date of birth, let alone his. It took me a good week to recover and to return to a normal state of mind.

So, that is how I met Mr Blahnik and sustained a nasty knock on the head.

I had concussed myself in the blink of a Manolo moment. As I flip through the gorgeous images in my personally signed book, I sigh and think to myself, Nicola, it was worth the bump.

Coco Chanel, not city council

Sometimes when things get just a little bit too crazy, something outrageously awful happens that it is too raw right now to even laugh at it and it feels the world has gone completely and utterly bananas, it can only take one small thing to make me smile again.

Today it was this; dashing around Covent Garden this lunchtime weaving between street artists, tourists, shoppers and the like, I spotted a Chanel lamppost. For those who swoon over anything mildly romantic, legend has it that our very own second Duke of Westminster was indeed so taken with Mademoiselle 'Coco' Chanel after their meeting in the late 1920s, that he insisted that all lampposts in Westminster were to have her initials adorned on them.

Apparently Westminster City Council has quashed these romantic notions and state that the two Cs actually stand for City Council. Sigh. Don’t they know what love is? Have they ever seen any of her beautiful designs? Have they not read Justine Picardie’s Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life? Well?

Coco actually turned down the Duke’s marriage proposal and is said to have told him ‘There have been several Duchesses of Westminster. There is only one Chanel'. in a way in which I suppose only she could have.

Today, I feel the need to be reminded of life’s small but wonderful things and am choosing to go with romance. When I pass that same lamppost later, or on any other sunny day in London, I will smile and think of Coco.

The most important dress of my life

It is a more sprightly return to blogging I am delighted to say - and with both hands too. It’s been a whole eight months since I last put word to screen which although is really frustrating in many ways, is mostly indicative of how eventful things have been. There are too many things to mention right now and so it is reassuring to know that I have some material to keep me blogging for the weeks and months ahead as I leave a memorable summer behind. Besides, I am so excited about writing again, that words are literally tumbling out of my brain and on to my lap top and so I’m trying to keep up with myself.

To begin is to momentarily return to April 2010, the 30th to be precise. A funny but wonderful thing happened on the way to being 32. My boyfriend, Alex, decided for an inexplicable reason that he wanted to be married to me and went about giving me the day of my life so far – The Proposal Day. Without hesitation I said yes. I am now engaged. It is time to plan.

It was brought to light this week that a very important decision is to be made. Four people, separately and without prompting, asked me if I had started looking for my dress. THE dress.

The answer of course is a resonating, rather worrying no. Not even considered it for a millisecond. Not even picked up a bridal magazine. Not even thought about it for one iota of a minute. It is easy to blame this lack of consideration on a demanding job, a busy life just like the rest of us, general lack of time, and being far too excited about my sister's wedding,

But the truth is... I am terrified. I do not know where to start. I feel more at ease having three changes of clothes if on holiday or away for the weekend. Per day. I constantly fill my head, notebooks, and eyes with images of delicious fashion but having to decide what to wear on my wedding day feels truly unmanageable. I do not know what to wear on a daily basis let alone on The Day. I am lost.

So I decided it was time for a little inspiration. I dream of Balenciaga, but my budget sits more firmly in the real world. However, that doesn’t mean I cannot take inspiration from some other blushing brides to get the creative bridal juices flowing.

Here are some of my favourite sources of inspiration.

It is a good start. I’m still none the wiser and I can’t put it off any longer, but let the exciting, but scary, search begin.

I have everything crossed that I get it right.